The sight of “big mountain,” on the 20-kilometre stretch from Coonoor to Ooty, is my favourite bit of the journey home to the Nilgiris. Black-and-white revetments ribbon endlessly along the road, like breadcrumbs to my destination. The sun glints through the trees, illuminating the flame-of-the-forest, which washes the hills in burnt orange.
Wellington’s army cantonment area, which lies three kilometers northwest, made such an impression on me as a child that it is still my model for how…
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